Daytime apparel, however, by drawing from men's fashions of the eighteenth century, managed to convey some historic feeling "Seventy-six" Walking Suit, p. Since this was only a commemoration with little real significance, the effects were minor and relegated chiefly to details.
Fashion history is dotted with occasional fads. They flare up suddenly, shine for a short time, and then disappear completely. In dresses developed elaborate pockets Visiting Costume, p. They became so popular that to be consistent with the new asymmetrical design of the costumes, they survived as a single pocket placed so low and so far back that they were rendered impractical and were reduced to pure decoration Reception Toilette, p.
Although many dresses were made with these pockets for two years, there is no sign of their use afterwards. The tennis apron was also short-lived Lawn Tennis Aprons, p. There was great concern with the "natural form" during this cycle.
Victorian Fashions, A Pictorial Archive with Over 1, Illustrations of Womens
While the fashionable version remolded the soft natural curves of the body into hard, rigid arcs Full-dress Toilette, p. Fashion columns extolled the virtues of this revolution in dress for its simplicity, comparative inexpensiveness and lasting quality. Yet for all the discussion, Harper's Bazar had few illustrations of this kind of dress. Those which appear seem to be misinterpretations of the Aesthetic movement Aesthetic Dress, p.
Largely ignoring the petition for sanity in dress, the fashion plates continued to show ladies encased in stoutly-boned, long-waisted "cuirasses" Cuirass Basque, p. Added to the new preference for heavier fabrics and darker colors, this gave the ladies the appearance of slowly gliding tree trunks Winter Costumes, pp.
One of the prime forces of change is ennui. In fashion it often manifests itself as a dissatisfaction with the original shape of the body and seeks expression in a wide variety of anatomical constrictions and distensions. Corsets have changed the shape of the torso by deforming the rib cage and displacing flesh.
Devices such as farthingales, hoops and bustles have artificially expanded lower portions of the body so that a whole new form was created, bearing little resemblance to the hips and legs concealed by them. Of these deviations from the natural, none is so difficult for the modern eye to justify in terms of esthetics, comfort or practicality as the form considered fashionable in the mids Autumn Toilettes, p.
The knees had been freed by this time, and the trains for day disappeared for easier walking, but the weight of these costumes and the structures needed to support the huge rear extension added little to increase mobility. Many of the fabrics were upholstery-like in quality, made even heavier by the profuse use of beading, fringes, braids and furs Dinner and Evening Toilettes, pp. Some dresses alone weighed over ten pounds. Summer costumes were made of lighter material, but they were no less layered.
Yet it was during this period that women pushed further into the area of sports, invading some that had been wholly the domain of men, such as yachting and fencing Fig. For sportswear few concessions were made in design. Details and trimmings were simplified or eliminated, but to remain fashionable on the tennis court or on a yacht, a lady still had to wear her corset and bustle, no matter how strenuous her activity Yachting and Tennis Gowns, pp. Only bathing costumes escaped them Beach and Bathing Dresses, p. Compared with the bustle of the early s, which had soft curves, the silhouette of the mids seems to have a hard edge.
When viewed in profile, it appears to be a small triangle set forward on a very large square Fig. As the skirt increased in volume, for day use the bodice became plainer, and was even tailored on occasions Spring Styles, p.
Victorian fashions and costumes from Harper's bazar, 1867-1898
For evening, the tops—sleeveless and low in back and front—became little more than corselets Evening Gowns, pp. Hairstyles and hats and bonnets were peaked as though to complete the apex of the triangle Hair-dressing, p. Headgear during this period was as ornate as the costumes. The best book on endoif 19th century fashion. The only pity is that the prints aren't coloured but I'm not sure if the original prints were coloured. Great reference book! Sep 14, Jennifer added it Shelves: books-to-buy. This is one of those books that every costumer of the period needs.
The engravings are fabulous. Dec 10, Erika Mulvenna rated it it was amazing Shelves: fashion. Excellent illustrations for Victorian fashions!
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Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar, 1867-1898
Books by Stella Blum. Trivia About Victorian Fashion No trivia or quizzes yet. Welcome back. Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. You will see bustles come and go, natural forms become the vogue only to be superseded by the constricting hourglass figure. Each look is illustrated with a number of different garments.
There are gowns for the morning hours, dinner dresses, sporting costumes, traveling clothes and apparel for special occasions: weddings, communions, funerals, etc. Since no costume was complete without accessories, a full line of hats, fans, parasols, muffs, gloves, handkerchiefs, jewelry, shoes and hair styles is shown as well.
A selection of children's attire is also included. An introduction by Stella Blum covers the history of Harper's Bazar and examines the various phases fashion went through between and Reprint of selections from Harper's Bazar , —